Roadtrips


natal embraces

  After the hot, hot state of Ceará, the Brazilian coast curves directly southwards at Rio Grande do Norte, whose capital of Natal was greatly expanded during WWII to launch tens of thousands of transit flights to theaters of war in Africa and Europe.  Accordingly, the capital feels more modern […]


brazilian mission to ica, peru

While Ica, Peru may not be technically belong in Backroads Brazil, during a recent mission trip we were able to be of service to a hard-working local church, including throwing a Brazilian Night (the first ever, we were told) with much worship, Brazilian food, decor, presentations, testimonies, and even a […]


the northeast’s ceará

Ceará is a state full of surprises, not all pleasant. From the bone dry caatinga (or semi-desert) interior to the altitude swamp of Ubajara’s high perch to the fleshpots of the coastal capital, Fortaleza (greatly expanded by the Yanks during WWII), the state marvels. My first encounters, after the trials […]


brazilian zeno 2

Zeno (2005-2022) was born in the mountainous splendor of Brazil and, accordingly, was primed for adventure. His first major roadtrip in the wilds of Brazil was along the country’s remote southern and western borders, during a 3 month journey at age 6. Not only was he fearless, he helped me […]


nomads of the sands

The staging point for the majestic Sheets of Maranhão Nat’l Park is the tiny, dune-invaded town of Barreirinhas, itself an enigmatic gem. If the most rewarding and accessible parts of Brazil are at the end of long dirt roads, that dissuade most drivers from visiting, this also holds true for […]


the brazilian sahara

Brazil is full of surprises, beyond the memes of beach, jungle, and soccer. One of the country’s greater natural wonders (among many) is the Sheets of Maranhão, in the far northern state of the same name. The national park encompasses one of the world’s rarest and most perplexing ecosystems. The […]


alcãntara, maranhão

Alcântara – which Atlas and I toured one day, after a 90 minute catamaran sail from São Luis – is one of the most curious enigmas (of many) in Brazil.  Like the country, it contains both the very old and the very (even overly) new. “Alcântara, built with the sugar […]


são luis, maranhão

São Luis, MA (Maranhão), is located on Brazil’s remote northern coast.  The roads are so poor for most of the northern coast that tourists never drive there, only fly. After the slow and rocky ferry crossing, Atlas and I arrived past nine o’clock and still found ourselves eighteen kilometers from […]


afro-brazilian candomblé

Chapter 19 of To Belém & Back describes a fascinating encounter one night in a remote part of the Amazon. While no batuque was currently planned, Dona Fatima implied that it was for lack of “materials,” the righting of which could motivate a gathering that very night. So I immediately […]


marajó island

“It was high time to take Atlas on another adventure, something on the order of Bananal Island, and it didn’t take long to settle on just such an opportunity, another isle no less.  Belém sits across from Isla de Marajó, the largest delta island in the world, bigger than Switzerland. […]