“It was high time to take Atlas on another adventure, something on the order of Bananal Island, and it didn’t take long to settle on just such an opportunity, another isle no less. Belém sits across from Isla de Marajó, the largest delta island in the world, bigger than Switzerland.
“Marajó is very much a sedimentary island, built up over millions of years by tons and tons of Amazonian flotsam, detrius, backwash, and dirt.” [pp. 155-156, 158, ‘To Belém & Back’]
From Belém, we took a three hour ferry ride across the mighty Pará River, which debouches the Amazon into the Atlantic. It takes much less time, here, to see it for yourself.
![“The eastern half of Marajó, which peaks at only twenty meters high, works tirelessly to stay above the Amazonian floods.... The forests that cover the island’s western half are thick and often submerged. Local custom has it that one needs to ask the forest’s permission before entering which, if overly sodden, it denies.” [p.160] Ferry on way there.](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-158w.jpg "“The eastern half of Marajó, which peaks at only twenty meters high, works tirelessly to stay above the Amazonian floods.... The forests that cover the island’s western half are thick and often submerged. Local custom has it that one needs to ask the forest’s permission before entering which, if overly sodden, it denies.” [p.160] Ferry on way there.")
![“On the way to Fazendo Bom Jesus we passed expansive marshlands with wide grassy plates of water dotted by lone trees and grassy mounds: the rainy season’s hangover.” [p.164]](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-073w.jpg "“On the way to Fazendo Bom Jesus we passed expansive marshlands with wide grassy plates of water dotted by lone trees and grassy mounds: the rainy season’s hangover.” [p.164]")
![“The name Marajó, full of hope, means ‘sea barrier’ in Tupi.” [p.158] One of many boat taxis.](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-095w.jpg "“The name Marajó, full of hope, means ‘sea barrier’ in Tupi.” [p.158] One of many boat taxis.")
![“It is also one of the longest inhabited corners of Brazil, where prehistoric Indian tribes thrived for millennia before summarily disappearing.” [p.158]](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-099w.jpg "“It is also one of the longest inhabited corners of Brazil, where prehistoric Indian tribes thrived for millennia before summarily disappearing.” [p.158]")
![“While some of the earliest known pottery in the Americas, called Tapajônica, is found further up the Amazon, near Santarém, the most sophisticated ceramics come from Marajó, where the ancient indigenous culture reached its apogee.” [p.158]](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-084w.jpg "“While some of the earliest known pottery in the Americas, called Tapajônica, is found further up the Amazon, near Santarém, the most sophisticated ceramics come from Marajó, where the ancient indigenous culture reached its apogee.” [p.158]")
![Para704-153w“...the first water buffalo arrived on Marajó by shipwreck, when a French galleon on its way from India to French Guiana foundered, with some of the cargo swimming ashore. Well suited to water-logged environments, there are now four varieties of buffalo on the island, with as many as six hundred thousand shipwreck descendants – greatly outnumbered human residents, as sheep do in Wales.” [p.159] Atlas protecting me.](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-153w.jpg "Para704-153w“...the first water buffalo arrived on Marajó by shipwreck, when a French galleon on its way from India to French Guiana foundered, with some of the cargo swimming ashore. Well suited to water-logged environments, there are now four varieties of buffalo on the island, with as many as six hundred thousand shipwreck descendants – greatly outnumbered human residents, as sheep do in Wales.” [p.159] Atlas protecting me.")
![“Due to an alluring remoteness only a short boat riade from Belém, the island became a refuge for runaway slaves and free Indians.” [p.163]](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-091w.jpg "“Due to an alluring remoteness only a short boat riade from Belém, the island became a refuge for runaway slaves and free Indians.” [p.163]")
![“During the Cabanagem War, Marajó was known for the slaying of foreign visitors, a practice now discouraged by all the ‘We respect tourists here’ signs in hotel lobbies...” [p.163]](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-082w.jpg "“During the Cabanagem War, Marajó was known for the slaying of foreign visitors, a practice now discouraged by all the ‘We respect tourists here’ signs in hotel lobbies...” [p.163]")
![“...the obligatory and buffoonish minute long buffalo ride at Good Lord Ranch...” [p.164]](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-077w.jpg "“...the obligatory and buffoonish minute long buffalo ride at Good Lord Ranch...” [p.164]")
![“When I chided Joãozinho that the numbers don’t seem to add up as protein is caloric as well, he assured me the statistics are official. ‘Well, if that’s the case,’ I replied, ‘then I’m going to eat more!’” [p.160]](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-103w.jpg "“When I chided Joãozinho that the numbers don’t seem to add up as protein is caloric as well, he assured me the statistics are official. ‘Well, if that’s the case,’ I replied, ‘then I’m going to eat more!’” [p.160]")
![“...to exposed brick or stuccoed buildings graced by Mediterranean tiles.” [p.160] Here the sign says "Draft beer for sale."](https://backroadsbrazil.com/wp-content/gallery/marajo-island/Para704-097w.jpg "“...to exposed brick or stuccoed buildings graced by Mediterranean tiles.” [p.160] Here the sign says \"Draft beer for sale.\"")
“After I dried off a rejuvenated, if spent, Atlas with his towel, we boarded Joãozinho’s lumbering bus of dreams and rumbled back to the hotel, on a low-lying island afloat in the glittering expanse of the Amazonian delta. Breaking barriers, I realized, is a force as natural as the Amazon’s onrushing ability to clear detrius, free blockages, and send it all out to sea.” [p.167]
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